Playing rugby to get fit for climbing or vice versa

Rugby Hist Society

George Scriven combined both activities at the highest level. He played for Ireland eight times between 1879 and 1883.   By this time he had played for his university side (Trinity), Wanderers and Leinster. George was unique in Irish Rugby history in that he became President of the IRU (1882-1883 and 1885-86), chairman of the selectors, and captain of the Irish team. (Details of his rugby career Here).

Born in Balbriggan in 1856, he attended Repton School in Derbyshire, then Trinity College, Dublin, from where he graduated BA in 1879.  George, like his father, became a physician in 1884. Practising at the Dublin Homeopathic Hospital at 33 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin (he was resident there in the 1911 Irish census) and then a Consultant at the London Homeopathic Hospital . He was a Magistrate for 

Co. Dublin , a member of the Alpine and Junior Constitutional Clubs, and University Club, Dublin .

While at Trinity he played for the college side and also visited the Alps and climbed with the renowned Martin Conway (a schoolfellow at Repton) in 1877 and '78.  The latter may have been a fairly hectic year for him since he played on the Leinster side in March (against Ulster); then climbed about ten routes in the Alps, including a number of first ascents - the Monte Rosa and Nordend in one day - in August; then played against Munster in December.

His climbing partner and schoolfellow at Repton, Sir Martin Conway, described him as '...the best climbing companion man ever had..' on such peaks as Rimpfishchorn, Zinal Rothorn, Matterhorn and others.  1888 saw him climbing in the Dolomites where he made the third ascent of Saas Maor and Cima della Madonna, climbed in the same day.  Back again in 1891, '93 and '95 he made a second ascent (Cima de Focobon) and climbed widely in the region.

Frank Nugent in 'In search of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers' provides a more detailed account of his climbing career.  He spent numerous seasons climbing in the Dolomites and read a paper to the Alpine Club describing some of them and the origin of the name.  Another paper read before the Club was on the 'Prevention of snow burning and blistering'.

George died in 1931 in Farnham, Surrey.

Some of his climbing achievements:

Cimon della Pala
GrazianoU, CC BY-SA 3.0 
Wikimedia

Sass Maor, cima della Madonna
Wikimedia;Svíčková, CC BY-SA 3.0 

                                                       

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Quaternions and Mountains - Charles Jasper Joly

   There seems to be little connection between Quaternions and Mountains but Charles Jasper Joly was a man who combined a deep knowledge and love of both.  (What are 'quaternions' - you might well ask. According to Wikipedia they are: A type of four-dimensional hypercomplex number consisting of a real part and three imaginary parts and are commonly used in vector mathematics and as an alternative to matrix algebra in calculating the rotation of three-dimensional objects. Quaternions were first described by the Irish mathematician William Rowan Hamilton in 1843 and applied to mechanics in three-dimensional space and also have practical uses in applied mathematics, particularly for calculations involving three-dimensional rotations, such as in three-dimensional computer graphics, computer vision, magnetic resonance.)

Born in County Offaly in 1864, at St Catherine's Rectory where his father was Rector, ( The land for the rectory had been provided by the town's landlord Charles William Bury, whose family will enter our story later.)  Joly's first school was in Portarlington before attending

Weissmies (Wikipedia)

 Galway Grammar School and entering Trinity College in 1882 from where he graduated in mathematics and experimental physics in 1886.  After this he went to Berlin to follow his interest in experimental physics in the laboratory of Herman von Helmholtz ( as had John Tyndall, some 30 years earlier). It may have been here that his interest in mountaineering began. He returned to Ireland on the death of his father and his first Alpine exploit seems to have been in 1892 on a visit to Switzerland when he climbed the Weissmies and crossed the Alhubeljoch.

His climbs of that year and the following two seasons were his qualifying achievements for membership of the Alpine Club to which he was elected in 1895 where he was proposed and seconded by two other Irish members and Trinity graduates - George Scriven and William Spotswood Green.

Rock climbing was of special interest and he spent some of his happiest mountain holidays among the the Dolomites around Cortina and San Martino. Despite a delicate appearance he possessed endurance, courage, and a keen sense of humour, once leading a group successfully down from the Eiger in a snowstorm.

In 1897 he was appointed Royal Astronomer of Ireland and lived at Dunsink observatory until his early death from typhoid in 1906.  By then he had published on mathematics and astronomy; one of his most important works was Manual of Quaternions (1905), brought out in the centenary year of Hamilton's birth. 

Alpine Club

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