Background

Background: There are no very big mountains on the island of Ireland. The highest Irish mountain, Carrauntoohill (Corrán Tuathail) is a little higher than 1,000m. There is no summit that cannot be reached by walking, yet there are many regions that are enjoyed by hillwalkers, hikers and climbers. Although the altitude of such regions is hardly more than Spain's Meseta, due to the combination of altitude and latitude such terrain is agriculturally unproductive , being used mainly as rough grazing for sheep. Many people enjoy mountain activities such as hiking and climbing in Ireland and over the centuries many people have travelled from Ireland to perform feats of mountaineering in the Greater Ranges of the world.

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Tuesday, February 28, 2023

Mapping of Ireland

Recorded mountains
 to 1700
 The mountains of Ireland appeared and were named on maps of the island as early as 1572.

John de Courcy has detailed the summits that appear on maps up to 1700.

(see Mountaineering Ireland. IMEHS Journal, Vol 2, 2005)

Charles Vallencey produced a military survey
of parts of the island around 1780.

Various land owners produced estate maps of their property and it was William Edgeworth, who had been involved in the bog survey, that produced a trigonometrical survey of Co Longford and part of Roscommon. With him, 'native Irish cartography attained a new high level'.       

In 1824 the six-inch Ordnance Survey mapping of Ireland was begun. As a consequence the surveyors were the first group to systematically get to all the significant mountain summits on the island. 

Principal triangulation
with dates.
 There is hardly a prominent peak that does not bear evidence of this in the ubiquitous 'trig pillars' that are familiar to hikers. Ireland was the first country to be completely mapped at a scale of  6 inches to a mile.


Much discussion  took place as to the merits of contour lines or hachuring to represent altitude and slope and it was not until about 1890 that the complete hill edition was produced.

A full account of the operation and proceedings of the OS in 19th Century Ireland is given by JH Andrews in  A Paper Landscape.

Thomas Colby was the director of the OS in Ireland  and John O' Donovan played 

John O'Donovan

an important role in the toponymical aspects of the survey.

Of course, the surveyors climbed the mountains for professional reasons rather than for recreation.  However, their activities may have had an influence on a generation of people that became interested in the activity of surveying, some of whom carried this interest abroad to Europe and North America and carried out surveys of their own in these places.  Among such people were John Palliser, Anthony Adams Reilly, Edward Oliver Wheeler and there will be more about these to follow.

A fascinating 'biography of the Ordnance Survey' is Map of a Nation by Rachel Hewitt (Granta, 2010)


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Tuesday, February 21, 2023

The Grand Tour


Richard Pococke

In general it was the wealthy middle and upper classes that would have been familiar with the works of Edmund Burke and the writers, poets and painters of the Romantic period.  As much as the appreciation of poetry and art was part of a good education so also had become the appreciation of landscape.  All of these may have been part of the motivation for the phenomenon that became known as the ‘Grand Tour’.  The benefits of such an undertaking were to ‘enrich the mind with knowledge…in a word to form the complete gentleman.’  This form of foreign travel became the favourite pursuit of ‘the quality’ across Europe and produced a comprehensive literature in English.  It was not, however, confined to the English.  ‘Despite the scorn and scoffing it may have aroused among the English abroad it had, by the middle of the century (18th), become an integral part of upper-class Irish life…’ Among such well known travellers were James Caulfield (4th Viscount Charlemont, spent seven years abroad), Frederick Augustus Hervey (4th Earl of Bristol) and George Berkley, the philosopher.

Richard Pococke was one such traveller.  ‘An Englishman by birth but Irish by adoption’ was how his biographer described him.  Although appointed to important clerical positions in the Church of Ireland as early as 1725 (aged about 21) he remained an absentee for about twenty years until he was appointed to very senior positions, including the bishopric of the dioceses of Ossory and Meath.  Returning from one of his tours, a visit to Egypt in 1741, he climbed Mt Ida in Crete, visited Naples and climbed Vesuvius twice and descended into the caldera, before going on to Geneva.
  It was his meeting, in Geneva, with William Wyndham that was the catalyst that led to their visit to Chamonix and the Mer de Glace that they explored on 17th June 1741.

This visit and Windham’s accounts of it that followed ‘marked the beginning of glacier tourism’ and Pococke came to be regarded as the pioneer of Alpine travel.

For more information on Richard Pococke's travels see:

Finnegan, Rachel (ed) Letters from abroad: the Grand Tour Correspondence of Richard Pococke and Jeremiah Milles, Pococke Press, Kilkenny 2011. pp 2


'Buck' Whaley:

has been described as 'Ireland's greatest adventurer'.  From his childhood he had wanted to explore distant lands.  In 1788 he undertook a ten month journey from Dublin to Jerusalem for a wager and this may have been the inspiration for Jules Verne's Around the world in 80 days. When he returned in 1789 he became an overnight celebrity.

The first ascent of Mont Blanc had been in 1786.  In Chamonix in 1792 during another 'Grand Tour' Whaley read an account of the ascent and decided that he would add his name to those of others at the summit.  With three English friends, none of whom had significant mountaineering experience, they hired twenty local guides and nonchalantly set off  on the climb 'as if on a pleasure trip'.

Gite a Balmat 
  It all went horribly wrong. In trying to reach the Gite a Balmat     conditions deteriorated to heavy rain and thick, icy fog. 

  Dislodged  boulders badly injured two of the guides and the others     decided to retreat.  The 'Gentlemen' considered continueing without the   guides but thought better of it.  In his memoirs, written some years   later,  he claimed that they had been two thirds of the way to the   summit  and that an avalanche had caused them to return and had killed two guides!

This was the first attempt to climb Mont Blanc by an Irishman.

Reckless and impulsive, he squandered a fortune through gambling and died aged 34 in 1800.


The full story of his incredible life and adventures is told by

David Ryan, in Buck Whaley, Ireland's greatest adventurer (Merrion Press 2019);

and his Alpine adventure by: G.R de Beer in The Alpine Journal, No 55, Oct 1946


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Sunday, February 5, 2023

Edmund Burke

 The prevailing attitude to mountains up to the late 18th C, even if they were regarded as sacred sites, was one of fear and awe.  They were the source of bad weather, one didn't venture into them lightly and according to a Swiss scientist 'they were the abode of dragons'.

Joseph Jacob Scheuchzer carried out extensive studies on the mountain environment.  His work on glaciology may have led to future exploration of mountain regions. His Proof of the Existence of Dragons may have expressed the generally held view of the era.  On the 'Grand Tour', if mountains were to be traversed, the curtains were drawn on the carriage windows lest the scenes were too dramatic.


Edmund Burke was an 18th C Irish author, political theorist, philosopher and Whig politician in the Westminster Parliament.  He was not the first  to discuss the concept of the 'sublime'.  Before him most writers on the subject "agreed that pleasant feeling of awe, delight, and admiration were the result of contemplating mountain ranges ..."  In his   Philosophical Enquiry into the Origin of Our Ideas of the Sublime and Beautiful he developed, uniquely, a physiological theory of beauty and sublimity and was the first to explain the concepts in terms of the process of perception and its effect upon the perceiver. 

His ideas on this can be seen to have influenced many of the poets and painters of the Romantic Era leading up to the early years of the 19th C.  In England the key figures of the romantic movement are considered to include the poets Wordsworth, Coleridge, Keats, Byron and Shelley and artists such as Constable and Turner and the works of such people had a significant influence in the change of attitude towards nature, wilderness and the mountain environment.

Mary Tighe
An almost forgotten Irish poetess was Mary Tighe (1772-1810).  Her writing is said to have influenced Keats, Byron and Shelley and the Irish lyricist Thomas Moore among others.  A number of her poems extolled the beauties of the mountains, woods and lakes around Killarney after her visit there in about 1800.

Robert James Graves (1796-1853) was a Dublin surgeon, who travelled widely in Europe and on one visit in the Swiss Alps, Graves became acquainted with the painter JMW Turner. They travelled and sketched together for several months, eventually parting company in Rome.

In general it would have been the wealthy middle and upper classes that would have been familiar with the works of such poets and artists and as much as the appreciation of poetry and art was part of a good education so, also, had become the appreciation of landscape.  All of these may have become the motivation for the phenomenon that become known as the 'Grand Tour'.

By Mary Tighe