Clubs and Organisations

 The Alpine Club, the world's first mountaineering club was founded in London in 1857.

Its first President was Irishman, John Ball and James Bryce, another Irishman,  was President from 1899 to 1901, before being appointed Ambassador to the USA.

As we have seen, many of the pioneering Irish alpinists of the 19th C had been members of the AC.  It

University Club

seems that from among those living in Ireland that the first organised 'mountaineering' event was held. James Bryce, as Under Secretary of State for Ireland, had led 'his panting subordinates up the steep side of Croagh Patrick'.  If this event is discounted it was the dinner held by the Irish AC members in the University Club on St Stephen's Green, Dublin, that might qualify.  Bryce had been the President of the Alpine Club, was an important figure in Ireland's administrative establishment and was soon to be appointed as British Ambassador to the USA and the event may have been organised by his AC colleagues to celebrate this.  However, there was no Irish club or organisation involved.

ALPINE CLUB DINNER IN DUBLIN.-The first dinner of members of the Alpine Club resident in Ireland was held at the University Club, Dublin, on January 26, 1906. The members of the latter Club having invited their fellow Alpinists' to meet the Right Hon. James Bryce, ex-President of the A. C., the following party assembled to welcome him to Ireland: H. de Fellenberg Montgomery (senior member), in the chair; Sir F. J. Cullinan, C.B.; Hon. G. Fitzgerald, Rev. W. S. Green, H. Warren, G. Scriven, R. M. Barrington, Rev. P. S. Whelan, H. Synnett, W. J. Kirkpatrick, G. B. Tunstall Moore.  (Courtesy: Alpine Club).

More about these to follow.

Early Brotherhood
 members

Brotherhood of the Lug                                                                                                                Somewhat earlier another event took place that could be regarded as the inaugeration of the first 'mountain' club.  This was the foundation of the 'Brotherhood of the Lug' that took place on the summit of Lugnaquilla (The Lug), the highest mountain in Wicklow and Leinster, on March 8th 1903.  Although not claiming to be 'mountaineers', they were prodigious walkers regularly walking distances of 35 km in the Wicklow hills.  The 'cradle' of the Lug, as they called it, was the Vale View Hotel in Avoca, where they stayed overnight before their annual ascent of Lugnaquilla.  The club continues to the present time and its hiking, trekking and climbing is no longer limited to Wicklow, as it was initially, but ventures much further afield.

See IMEHS Journal Vol 4:  Peter Quinn, Ireland's Oldest Walking Club for more detail.

United Arts Club, Dublin.  It came into existence in 1907; W. B. Yeats, George “AE” Russell, Lady Augusta Gregory -  these writers, along with Ellie Duncan, Count Casimir and Countess Constance Markievicz, founded the United Arts Club.  Despite having no obvious connection with mountaineering a number of its members were enthusiastic Rock Climbers and visited North Wales to climb with the leading British alpinists of the day.  These were such people as Conor O'Brien and Page Dickenson and others.

More about these to follow.

CHA - founded in Britain in 1891 ( by Rev. T.A. Leonard) as the Co-Operative Holiday Association.
This organisation arranged 'good value' walking holidays and established hostels in England, Scotland and Wales. with the aim of encouraging people to visit and enjoy the countryside.  In 1922, James Doyle, who had holidayed with the organisation, wanted to set up a similar association in Dublin.  On writing to the HQ in England, he was given a list of 42 names from Ireland of people who had holidayed with the group, 27 of which were in Dublin.  Following an 'ad' in the Evening Mail and after writing to some, the first meeting was held on 13 Sep 1922.  About 20 attended and the first 'Ramble' was on the 21 October 1922 when they met in Rathfarnham 'a village nestling at the foot of the Dublin Mountains'.  They continued with a programme of rambles and social events, opening a hostel in Bray that had to close in the 70s.  The 2nd WW and the lack of transport affected activities and membership but the club continues today as the Countrywide Hillwalkers Association.  See here for more details.

HF stands for Holiday Fellowship and has its origins in  Lancashire when, in 1891, the Rev T.A.
Leonard starting taking young people walking on the hills. He first formed Co-operative Holidays Association (CHA) and then in 1913 he formed the Holiday Fellowship.

Early HF hikers.

 The emphasis of the organization was on healthy outdoor exercise and temperance (long since abandoned!).   The Dublin branch of Holiday Fellowship was founded in March 1930 by a small group on the south side of Dublin, The Club grew rapidly in members, including Guinness employees and every year they went to an HF center to holiday. There were many notables in the club, like Wilfred Brambell and Dr. Sheehy Skeffington. From the early days there was a programme of rambles and hikes in the mountains of Wicklow and surroundings.                                                                                                                      The club now has  no formal link with the UK company HF Holidays,  though it occasionally holidays in one of its houses.    See here for more information.

Hostel Association:  We are An Óige, the Irish Youth Hostel Association. We were founded in 1931 and ever since it has been our mission to provide safe, affordable, comfortable accommodation and experiences to the young and young at heart. Our aim is to foster an appreciation of nature and the world around us to all, be it backpackers, school groups or families. Many of the hoistels are located in remote areas and give easy access to Ireland mountain regions.

Scouting Ireland:  Scouting Ireland has its history in two legacy Scouting organisations — the Scout Association of Ireland (SAI), formerly known as the Boy Scouts of Ireland, and the Catholic Boy Scouts of Ireland (CBSI). The former traces its roots to 1908, and the latter was founded in 1927 – both trace their legacy to Lord Baden-Powell's Scout Movement.                                                                         By 1908, the influence of Baden-Powell's Scout Movement had spread from Great Britain to Ireland. The first recorded meeting of Scouts in Ireland took place at the home of Richard P. Fortune, a Royal Naval Volunteer Reservist, at 3 Dame Street, Dublin on 15 February 1908 where four boys were enrolled in the Wolf Patrol of the 1st Dublin Troop. The earliest known Scouting event in Ireland took place in the Phoenix Park in 1908 with members of the Dublin City Boy Scouts (later Scouting Ireland S.A.I.) taking part.                                                                                                                                           In Dublin in the 1920s, two Roman Catholic priests, Fathers Tom and Ernest Farrell, followed the progress of Scouting and in  1926 the Catholic Boy Scouts of Ireland (CBSI) (Gasóga Catoilici na hÉireann) was created. CBSI would later become the largest Scout association on the island.

These organisations (other than the Alpine Club) are unlikely to consider themselves 'Mountaineering' clubs.  (It was even sugested that the AC was founded for 'gentlemen who enjoyed walking steeply uphill'! ) The CHA has designated itself a 'Rambling Club'.  However, all of them have facilitated the activity of climbing mountains among their members.

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Early mountaineering in Ireland

 'Although Irish mountaineers were prominent in the early development of Alpine climbing, mountaineering in Ireland did not take a firm root until recently. (mid 20th C)

    The Irish Alpinists did not neglect their homeland hills, but they treated them principally as practice grounds for the Alps, and their attentions did not give rise to a vigorous school of local climbers as was the case in Great Britain...'

This statement by Pyat & Robson (IMC Journal Vol 1) is accurate but only up to a point.  It fails to mention the people on the island, not Alpinists or mountaineers in a strict sense, who nevertheless were 'hillwalking' and climbing Irish hills during the 19th C.  It also ignores the clubs and organisations that encouraged 'rambling' and 'hiking' in the outdoors without claiming to be 'mountaineering' clubs.

Here, I'll look at the written evidence of people who were hillwalking and climbing during the 19th Century.  Further on I'll look at the clubs and organisations that seemed to encourage such activities among their members.

Poets and writers mentioned their enjoyment of mountains and mountain scenery (Brian Merriman, Mary Tighe) but the earliest written record of a specific climb seems to have been written by Caesar Otway after his visit to Donegal in 1822 when he climbed Muckish.  The account was published in 1839 in his book 'Sketches in Ireland''. (see below)

Muckish

Muckish

Mary Burtchell was a resident of Graiguenamanagh, Co Kilkenny and records in a diary entry for 16th Aug 1845 that she climbed the nearby Brandon Hill.  No great feat of mountaineering, it does indicate her interest in venturing into relatively wild upland terrain and she went, again, to the higheset point in Co Kilkenny on 9th Sep 1850.  She gives no further information on her trips.

Brandon Hill

In 1849, a Waterford man, ( a member of the Mackesy family) wrote a detailed account of a two-day venture into the Comeragh Mountains in which he gives a detailed account of his journey with a description of the terrain and many of the lakes and cooms --

        Let us ascend. Aye, it is very steep, and the day is bright and hot ; but take it quietly—you have        only a two-mile walk before you. For a part of the way the grass is pleasant, and we can go straight onwards. But ever as we climb, the heath and ling become tougher and taller, the grass thinner, the stones more numerous, the dried-up channels of the winter floods more deep and  frequent ; so that we can no longer hold a direct course, but must deviate into many a zig-zag;  and still, as we surmount each swelling knoll, the dark Coum above seems to recede, and the way  to lengthen before us.  (Dublin University Magazine 1849).

(for full account see IMEHS Journal Vol 5; forthcoming)

There were other residents who made significant expeditions to Greater Ranges abroad but don't seem to have recorded any such activity in their homeland.  John Palliser is likely to have hiked in the Comeraghs and William Spotswood Green in the Kerry mountains.

Of course, some of the very fanous Irish Alpinists undertook some climbing at home and this will be looked at soon.

Caesar Otway's climb of Muckish:

But the lofty cloud- compelling Muckish was near Ards, and on this pig's back I was determined to mount-there will be no limits to vision from it; I shall see all Donegal, and Innishowen, and Tyrone; I shall see Derry, the brave devoted city, the joy of the whole Protestant world, under my feet; I shall see the fine land-locked Lough Swilly, the deep indented waters of Mulroy. In short, I shall see what I have ever had a passion for seeing, a wide and outstretched view, from a mountain.

 So, in spite of the fervours of a July day, and joined in the daring enterprise by some of the younger part of the family at Ards, we set forth to climb the mountain, and here it was literally climbing. There are some lofty mountains you can ride to the top of. To the craggy height of Snowdon, Welsh tourists, as I am informed, ascend in carriages; but rest assured this facility was not possible to us; for actually in many places we had to catch hold of the heath and and rock to help us in the ascent; and so steep and downright was the mountain, that a stone of any size could be hurled from the top to the bottom. Thus amusing ourselves rolling down  the compact silicious rock, and observing the noise, velocity, smoke, and flashes of fire that were elicited in the momentum of the descent, at last, after near four hours' exertion, we arrived at the summit of our ambition.

 I ran, covered with perspiration and panting with heat, to mount the topmost ridge; and just as we arrived there, just as we had cast our eyes around, and began to feast on the immense vision of earth and ocean beneath us, a vast murky cloud from the Atlantic, big with sleet and moisture, enveloped us as well as the whole top of the mountain as with a night-cap, and made every thing so dark, indistinct, and dreary, that we could scarcely see one another : besides, it was attended with such a cold, cutting breeze, that we, who were all with pores open under the process of perspiration, felt as if the Cacodemon of the mountain, in revenge for his invaded solitari- ness, had risen in anger, and armed with a scythe, had rushed on to cut us asunder-to retreat, there- fore, was the best policy. ......

 But I, whose curiosity was more intense than that of my friends, in spite of a cold and driving sleet, and fearless of a fever, still lingered behind, and hastily observed that on the top of this lofty mountain, which at a distance appears so acute and linear in its ridge, there was a plain of some acres, on which grew in luxuriance that species of saxifrage, so great an ornament to our gardens, called London pride. I also took time to observe, that on the north-western side of the elevation where it stands exposed to the driving sleet and tempest, and saline spray of the great Atlantic, even the white quartz rock is decomposed, and has been con- verted by the agency of the elements into beds of minute sand, as white as the driven snow-this the proprietor of the mountain rolls down the side of the hill in canvas bags, and exports to Dumbarton in Scotland

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Playing rugby to get fit for climbing or vice versa

Rugby Hist Society

George Scriven combined both activities at the highest level. He played for Ireland eight times between 1879 and 1883.   By this time he had played for his university side (Trinity), Wanderers and Leinster. George was unique in Irish Rugby history in that he became President of the IRU (1882-1883 and 1885-86), chairman of the selectors, and captain of the Irish team. (Details of his rugby career Here).

Born in Balbriggan in 1856, he attended Repton School in Derbyshire, then Trinity College, Dublin, from where he graduated BA in 1879.  George, like his father, became a physician in 1884. Practising at the Dublin Homeopathic Hospital at 33 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin (he was resident there in the 1911 Irish census) and then a Consultant at the London Homeopathic Hospital . He was a Magistrate for 

Co. Dublin , a member of the Alpine and Junior Constitutional Clubs, and University Club, Dublin .

While at Trinity he played for the college side and also visited the Alps and climbed with the renowned Martin Conway (a schoolfellow at Repton) in 1877 and '78.  The latter may have been a fairly hectic year for him since he played on the Leinster side in March (against Ulster); then climbed about ten routes in the Alps, including a number of first ascents - the Monte Rosa and Nordend in one day - in August; then played against Munster in December.

His climbing partner and schoolfellow at Repton, Sir Martin Conway, described him as '...the best climbing companion man ever had..' on such peaks as Rimpfishchorn, Zinal Rothorn, Matterhorn and others.  1888 saw him climbing in the Dolomites where he made the third ascent of Saas Maor and Cima della Madonna, climbed in the same day.  Back again in 1891, '93 and '95 he made a second ascent (Cima de Focobon) and climbed widely in the region.

Frank Nugent in 'In search of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers' provides a more detailed account of his climbing career.  He spent numerous seasons climbing in the Dolomites and read a paper to the Alpine Club describing some of them and the origin of the name.  Another paper read before the Club was on the 'Prevention of snow burning and blistering'.

George died in 1931 in Farnham, Surrey.

Some of his climbing achievements:

Cimon della Pala
GrazianoU, CC BY-SA 3.0 
Wikimedia

Sass Maor, cima della Madonna
Wikimedia;Svíčková, CC BY-SA 3.0 

                                                       

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Quaternions and Mountains - Charles Jasper Joly

   There seems to be little connection between Quaternions and Mountains but Charles Jasper Joly was a man who combined a deep knowledge and love of both.  (What are 'quaternions' - you might well ask. According to Wikipedia they are: A type of four-dimensional hypercomplex number consisting of a real part and three imaginary parts and are commonly used in vector mathematics and as an alternative to matrix algebra in calculating the rotation of three-dimensional objects. Quaternions were first described by the Irish mathematician William Rowan Hamilton in 1843 and applied to mechanics in three-dimensional space and also have practical uses in applied mathematics, particularly for calculations involving three-dimensional rotations, such as in three-dimensional computer graphics, computer vision, magnetic resonance.)

Born in County Offaly in 1864, at St Catherine's Rectory where his father was Rector, ( The land for the rectory had been provided by the town's landlord Charles William Bury, whose family will enter our story later.)  Joly's first school was in Portarlington before attending

Weissmies (Wikipedia)

 Galway Grammar School and entering Trinity College in 1882 from where he graduated in mathematics and experimental physics in 1886.  After this he went to Berlin to follow his interest in experimental physics in the laboratory of Herman von Helmholtz ( as had John Tyndall, some 30 years earlier). It may have been here that his interest in mountaineering began. He returned to Ireland on the death of his father and his first Alpine exploit seems to have been in 1892 on a visit to Switzerland when he climbed the Weissmies and crossed the Alhubeljoch.

His climbs of that year and the following two seasons were his qualifying achievements for membership of the Alpine Club to which he was elected in 1895 where he was proposed and seconded by two other Irish members and Trinity graduates - George Scriven and William Spotswood Green.

Rock climbing was of special interest and he spent some of his happiest mountain holidays among the the Dolomites around Cortina and San Martino. Despite a delicate appearance he possessed endurance, courage, and a keen sense of humour, once leading a group successfully down from the Eiger in a snowstorm.

In 1897 he was appointed Royal Astronomer of Ireland and lived at Dunsink observatory until his early death from typhoid in 1906.  By then he had published on mathematics and astronomy; one of his most important works was Manual of Quaternions (1905), brought out in the centenary year of Hamilton's birth. 

Alpine Club

                                                     For further biographical details see DIB      

                  

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John Stevenson Lyle

 

Very little is know about John Stevenson Lyle.  He was born in 1849 or '50, the son of Samual Lyle of The Oaks, Londonderry.  He attended Trinity College, Dublin and was a friend there of W.S. Green and graduated BA in 1871.  Along with Henry Swanzy and  while he and Green were still students the three visited the Alps (1870) and climbed Monte Rosa.

After graduating (1871) he climbed the Matterhorn and in 1872 the New Weisstor and the Dom.  These were his qualifying climbs for Alpine Club membership, of which he remained a member only until 1875.

Taking Holy Orders in 1872 he remained a curate in England until 1876 when he went to Ceylon (Sri Lanka) as a missionery in Matara.  His work there was the subject of a question in the Westminster Parliament; he joined the Roman Catholic Church soon after 1885 and he returned to Britain as a priest in Peebles and Edinburgh.

There is no record of any mountain activity in either Sri Lanka or Scotland and he died in 1919.

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Gerald Fitzgerald

 In the early years of the Alpine Club (founded in 1857) its membership consisted, by and large, of upper class professionals.  The law, religion, medicine and business provided the majority of members.      Gerald Fitzgerald was one such Irish member of the AC who reached the apogee of the legal profession.

John David, Gerald's father was also a prominent member of the legal profession in Ireland - a catholic, he was liberal in politics and became independent liberal MP for Ennis, Co. Clare (1852–60).  He presided over a number of important cases including the trial of the Fenian leaders (1865) and of Charles Stewart Parnell  and thirteen others for conspiracy to encourage tenant farmers to avoid paying rent. (see DIB for more details).

Aig du Telefre
(Summit Post)

Gerald was the third son of Rose Donohoe, a Dublin distillers's daughter and the father's first wife. There were ten siblings with the second wife.  Little detail is available on his early life and education but he graduated (BA) from Trinity in 1869, was called to the bar in 1871 and was county court judge for Sligo, Roscommon, Longford, Meath, Westmeath and King's Co (Offaly).

He joined the Alpine Club in 1876 and is recorded climbing the Matterhorn in 1877 with his last recorded climb in 1911.  Some of his early climbs were with F.J. Cullinan - col de Miage, Aiguille du Midi and 1st ascent of Aig du Telefre.

From 1885 he climbed frequently with Sir William Edward Davidson, another, British, 'legal eagle', with whom he made a number of ground breaking climbs.

Alpine Club

In 1906 (Jan 26th) he attended the Alpine Club's dinner

that was held by the University Club, St Stephen's Green, in Dublin, inviting its fellow 'Alpinists' to welcome the Right Hon. James Bryce (ex President of the AC) to Ireland.

It might be noted the number of Trinity graduates who undertook mountaineering while they were students or soon after graduating.  Their financial situation is likely to have been a factor but maybe, also, some aspect of their courses or the people with whom they came in contact.

Gerald died in 1913 after a distinguished legal career and a substantial range of mountaineering achievements.

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Henry Swanzy

Henry Swanzy (1841-1906) was a scion of the family of Henry Swanzy who came to Ireland with the army of William III (of Orange) in 1689 and settled in Co Monaghan.  His father (also Henry) was curate in Youghal in 1835 when he married Elizabeth Green (aunt of Willliam S Green).  Henry, born in December, 1841,  was cousin (once removed) to the latterly famous artist Mary Swanzy and was Rector of Castlemagner, Co Cork, for 35 years.

There seems to be very little information available on his early years.  He attended Mr Wall's school in Portarlington for a time and then Rathmines School under Mr Benson, before entering Trinity College in 1861 from where  he graduated BA in 1865 and MA in 1868. Ordained Deacon in 1866, then priest in 1868, he was curate in Kilshannig from 1866 to 1871.

His first foray to the Alps was in 1870 when he joined his cousin, W.S. Green and another Irish clerical gentleman, J.S. Lyle, and climbed the Brevant.  They went on that season to cross a number of Switzerland's notable passes (Col d'Herens, Adler and Grimsel Passes) and climbed two 4,000m peaks - Finsteraarhorn and Monte Rosa, with eminent guides, Alexander Burgener and Peter Knubel.

There appears to be little mountain activities in the following years. However as a member if the British Association for the Advance of Science (now the British Science Association) he is likely to have had a serious interest in scientific matters and when that association held its annual meeting in Canada in 1884 he attended, along with another Irish climber and naturalist Richard M. Barrington.  In a post conference excursion they travelled to Lake Louise (Courtesy of Canadian Pacific Railway) from where Swanzy and Barrington continued on foot on the proposed route of the rail line through 170 miles of the Rocky Mountains. The trek took 17 days, crossing the Roger's Pass to Shuswap Lakes and Kamloops.

The Canadian mountains may have greatly impressed him for in 1888, at his suggestion and along with his cousin, W.S Green, he set off again in what was probably the first all Irish expedition team to explore and map any mountain range outside Europe. They spent from mid July to early September in the mountains, much of the time surveying the hitherto unexplored part of the Selkirk Range 'lying immediately south of the Canadian Pacific railway track and enclosed by the highest peaks of the Selkirks' in the region of the Illecillewaet Glacier.  It was particularly difficult terrain, especially below the tree line and on one occasion they spent seven hours in travelling 1.5 miles.

On Mt Bonney

Swanzy hunting.

Swanzy leading

 They used pack horses to carry their 'gear' and sought the   services of a 'packer'.  When 'some mighty hunter expressed   a desire to join us...when he heard we were two parsons he "chucked it up" in disgust... he would have to knock off   swearing for a month and that that was utterly impossible". 
 When their badly packed horse took a fall, smashing much   of  their technical equipment, they would have given their   erstwhile packer "permission to swear for five minutes   without stopping".

(Illustrations from Among the Selkirk Glaciers, Aquila Books, Calgary - reprint)

Despite such misadventures  they completed the survey, made a first ascent of a 3,000m summit (they named Mt Bonney for the Alpine Club president) and named numerous topographical features that retain the name to this day (Mounts Dawson, Fox, Donkin, Deville -later changed to Selwyn, Macoun - for Prof John Macoun, Dominion Botanist and Naturalist who assisted them, born in Co Down in 1831). Marion Lake was named for Green's daughter and Lily Glacier for Swanzy's daughter.  Mount Swanzy (1895) and Mt Green (by A.O.Wheeler) were later named in their honour.

After their survey work they spent time in the Lake Louise area and it was at their suggestion that an hotel be located there that resulted in the subsequent construction of what is now Chateau Lake Louise.

https://www.chateau-lake-louise.com/

Further details of the survey are available in Frank Nugent's In search of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers

On their return to Ireland it was Green who gained fame as a result of the expedition from his lectures and the resulting book Among the Selkirk Glaciers. Swanzy seems to have faded into relative obscurity and it might be wondered if they ever hiked again in the mountains of Cork and Kerry in Ireland.

  

Mt Swanzy. Wikipedia

Mt Green. Wikipedia

                                                                                                  

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Another Barrington, Richard

Courtesy:
F Nugent & Barrington family

 Richard Manliffe Barrington was half-brother to Charles, and was the only son of their father's second wife (Huldah Strangman). Born in 1849 at Fassaroe, Barrington was a delicate youngster, with a keen interest in natural science. He was educated mainly at home, with the exception of one year at a day-school in Bray. He entered TCD (1866), graduating with honours (1870) in experimental and natural science.

 In 1875 he was called to the bar, but soon found the life of a land valuer and farmer more to his liking. After the death of his father (1877) he became more involved with the management of the farm at Fassaroe. 

Growing up, he spent many weeks every summer on the islands, mountains and lakes of the south and west of Ireland gathering notes on plants and birds. Along with another Trinity educated mountaineer, Henry Chichester Hart, he contributed to Alexander Goodman More's 1872 publication, Cybele Hibernica.

On a visit to London in that year (1872) he attended a lecture in the Royal Institution given by John Tyndall and on his return went on a hillwalking holiday in Killarney where they went to the Gap of Dunloe, climbed Carrantuohill (with a local guide) and Mangerton, got a little lost in the fog on Mount Brandon, climbed Eagle Mountain and hiked around the area before returning to Dublin by train.

1876 saw his first Alpine sojourn, when he repeated his half-brother's ascent of the Eiger and it was by his encouragement that Charles wrote an account for the Alpine Club of his own ascent, confirming that it was, in fact, the first ascent of that summit.

His interest in botany and ornithology continued and he visited the western islands of Ireland and Scotland, Lough Erne and Ben Bulben, and visited Iceland in 1881, hiking extensively there and climbing Mt Hekla. Reports on the flora and fauna of such places were written and many published.  On one such visit (in 1883) to the Outer Hebrides he undertook what became an 'epic' climb on one of the sea stacks (Stack na Biorrach) and published an account in the Alpine Journal (May 1913. No 200).

Stack na Biorrach

  He wanted to compare the climbing abilities of the locals (who climbed to collect eggs and fowl) to that of the Alpine guides. This was soon after he had completed a spectacular season in the Alps (1882) when   the Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, Eggishorn, Jungfrau and Matterhorn were climbed     -         a total ascent of at least 84,500 feet in ten days.

Henry Swanzy was a clergyman friend and together they attended the annual meeting of the British Association in Manitoba, Canada in 1884.  Afterwards they continued westwards through the Selkirk and Rocky Mountains on a gruelling journey through largely unexplored territory to reach the west coast, returning via Portland, Oregon and Chicago.  Swanzy's report of the mountains traversed was an influencing factor in the later explorations of his cousin William Spottswood Green.

It was Green who was his proposer for Alpine Club membership in 1886 and in 1889 he returned to the Alps with H.C Hart, climbing the Weisshorn and Dent Blanche.  This seems to have been his last Alpine season.  He died in 1915 leaving his natural history collection to the Science and Art Museum, Kildare St., Dublin.

Biorrach 
Marc Calhoun

See  here for details of his life;

and In Search of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, by Frank Nugent for more details of his Alpine career.

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People involved (a list with links)

The following are some of the people involved with mountains, mainly during the 19th Century.  There will be further additions to the list in due course.

 John Ball                                                                1 Mary Burtchell

 Charles Barrington                                                 2 Susan Gavan Duffy

 Richard Barrington                                                 3 Elizabeth Hawkins-Whithed

 James Bryce                                                           4 Elizabeth Le Blond

 Edmund Burke                                                       5 Mrs Main

 Arthur David Mc Cormick                                      6 Mary Tighe

 Richard Cotter                                                         7 Beatrice Tomasson  

Frederick Fitzjames Cullinan                                     8 Louisa Tyndall

Maxwell Cormac Cullinan                                         9. Frederica Plunkett                                                  

 Darby Field                                                                                                                        

Tom Fitzpatrick  

Robert Fowler                                                         

Robert James Graves

William Spottswood Green

Ewart Grogan

 Henry Chichester Hart

Brian Merriman

John Palliser

Richard Pococke

Anthony Adams Reilly

Henry Russell

Henry Swanzy

John Tyndall

Buck Whaley

Arthur Oliver Wheeler

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William Spotswood Green

  William Spotswood Green was born 10 September 1847 in Youghal, Co. Cork,  the only son and eldest  of six children of Charles Green, JP, merchant of Youghal, and his wife Catherine Frances, daughter of Walter Fitzsimons. 

Educated at Rathmines School, Dublin (1859–61),  Midleton College (1861–7), and TCD (1867–71), he spent his childhood in the family home on the seafront in Youghal, where an obsession with boats, the sea, and fishing began.

His first written observations on natural history date from this period and include records of distribution of molluscs in Youghal Bay. 

His first climbing expedition abroad was in 1869, when, at the age of 21, he went to Switzerland with his friend J.S.Lyle.  He intended to climb Monte Rosa but his guide accidently burned the soles of his only boots.  He recorded little about this expedition except to say that 'I returned home feeling that a whole new world had opened up for me'.

The following year he was in Switzerland again with Lyle and his own cousin Henry Swanzy.  As well as doing a long walk of about 100Km they climbed Monte Rosa, Aiguille Bricola, Sparrenhorn, Finsteraarhorn and returned to Ireland on 31 of August.

After graduating in 1871 he took off to Norway's Lofoten area that was then largely unexplored and later became a popular mountaineering destination.  He had set his sights on climbing Higravstinden but seems to have made the first ascent of  a lower summit.

On Aoraki

Ordained deacon of the Church of Ireland in 1871 and to the priesthood the following year and was appointed curate of Kenmare  from where he moved to Carrigaline  in 1878.

Aoraki, or Mount Cook (3,754m) as it was then called, is the highest summit in New Zealand and this is where Green focused his attention.  Along with two Swiss guides he reached, almost, to the summit in what turned out to be an epic of survival in extreme weather conditions. in 1882.

Returning to Ireland he wrote an account of the expedition  (The High Alps of New Zealand) and lectured on it to the Royal Irish Academy (R.I.A) and the Royal Geographical Society (R.G.S).

In olden time the new light was carried into our own island and to the recesses of the Alps by Irish missionaries. In our own day they are resuming their post as handers-on of the torch. One of the most powerful preachers in Europe of that devotion to high mountains which has been not one of the least consolations to many for all the crowding and complexities of modern life has been Mr. John Ball. And now the first to introduce practical mountain worship in its developed form ...has been an Irish clergyman. Mr. Green succeeds St. Gall. The Alpine Club and the author may both be congratulated on the literary result of this their first missionary enterprise in the Antipodes             (D.W Freshfield in a review of Green's book in Alpine Journal)

Green's cousin and climbing partner of earlier years was a member of the British As sociation for the Advancement of Science and attended its convention in Western Canada.  He returned with tales of magnificent and almost untouched mountains.

In 1888 the cousins made up what was perhaps the first solely Irish expedition team to explore and map any mountain range outside of Europe.  To Green, it must have seemed as if he was upholding the standard of Ball, Tyndall and Adams-Reilly during the Golden Age of Alpinism.  (R.W Sandford).

Selkirks.

                                                                        

As part of their surveying they climbed as many summits as they could in the time available and named Mounts Dawson, Fox, Donkin, Deville, Macoun and Perley Rock.   Two peaks were later named Mount Green and Mount Swanzy.

His account of the expedition was published as 'Among the Selkirk Glaciers', in 1890 and was the first book written about the Canadian mountains and his description of the 'perfect alpine paradise' led many European climbers to head for the Canadian west which resulted in a burgeoning climbing fraternity in that country.

He is credited with recommending the location for a small chalet to the Canadian Pacific Railway that would grow to become the Chateau Lake Louise hotel.

Another aspect of his life was that he made a notable contribution to the Irish sea-fishing industry.

For on overview of his life see here (DIB)

Detailed accounts of his mountaineering in:

In Search of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers,  Frank Nugent (The Collins Press); and

William Spotswood Green, Paddy Leahy, Vol 4, IMEHS Journal of Mountaineering Ireland

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Outside the Alps

Bryce.  Wikipedia

 The Golden Age of Alpinism is generally agreed to have ushered in a sustained period of mountain climbing in the Alps that made fashionable the idea of mountaineering as a sporting activity.  In the period between 1854 and 1865 thirty six summits higher than 4,000m (13,000 ft) were first climbed, 31 of them by British parties and their guides: we have seen that a significant number of the climbers were Irish.  

A notable feature of the people undertaking this activity was that they were wealthy.  It required substantial financial resources to travel to the Alps, spend at least a couple of weeks there and to hire the necessary porters and guides to undertake expeditions that may have lasted for a number of days.  John Tyndall's initial foray to the mountains may have been an exception because he 'got by very cheaply' but that was before he did 'serious' climbing.

The local people who climbed summits did so mainly at the behest of the 'wealthy tourists' who employed them as guides and porters because their knowledge and experience gained through hunting and other activities.

Russell. Wikipedia

Cotter

Many of the 'summiteers' wrote of the experiences and the result was that  the interest in climbing mountains spread to many other regions in the years following the Golden Age.  Some of the Irish who were involved in the second half of the 19th Century were the following and not all were wealthy:

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Richard Cotter in North America.

James Bryce in many places

Henry Russell in the Pyrenees.

William Spotswood Green in Canada and New Zealand.

More about all these to follow.

The Golden Age of Alpinism - Ireland's contribution

 In Search of PEAKS, PASSES & GLACIERS is Frank Nugent's account of the Irish Alpine Pioneers who made a significant contribution to Alpinism during its Golden Age and the following fifty years.

The Golden Age of Alpinism is generally agreed to have begun with Alfred Wills' ascent of the Wetterhorn in 1854 that was the beginning of a sustained period of mountain climbing in the Alps that made fashionable the idea of mountaineering as a sporting activity.  Something of an austere figure, Wills was a judge of the High Court of England and Wales; an Irish connection was that it was he who passed judgement on Oscar Wilde.

John Ball

One of Wills' close friends and climbing companions was John Ball and he  '...was a man whose work in the Alps may...be characterised as that of the chief pioneer of mountain exploration, whether in its scientific, its practical or its literary aspects'. (WAB Coolidge, Ball's Obit.)

Some background:

John Ball, born in Dublin on 20 Aug 1818, a Roman Catholic, he was descended from a Cromwellian officer (Jonathan Ball) and was the son of Nicholas Ball, a barrister, a supporter of Catholic Emancipation and Daniel O'Connell, MP for Clonmel and a judge of the Court of Common Pleas. Nicholas's eldest sister Cecilia Ball (1784–1854) was superior of the Ursuline convent in Cork; his second sister Anna Maria Ball was a noted philanthropist; and his youngest sister Mary Teresa (Frances) Ball  introduced the Loreto order to Ireland. (D I B).

A precocious youngster, his first view of the Alps was at age nine and he was smitten.  His education took him to he Jesuit college at Oscott and later to Christ's College, Cambridge, where he studied under a number of eminent scientists (Airy, Henslow, Sedgwick) but his religion prevented him taking a degree.

Peaks, Passes & Glaciers

Details of his Alpine career are recorded in many places. He visited the Alps almost every year from the mid 1840s until his death.  He made the first ascent of  Monte Pelmo.  He crossed the main Alpine chain 48 times by 32 different passes, and another 100 passes on lateral ridges.

He was chosen as first president of the Alpine Club, instituted and edited its annual Peaks, Passes and Glaciers in 1859, the forerunner of the Alpine Journal; Ball's Alpine Guides,  published in three volumes ((1863-8), became, famously,  his most influential work.

During the 'Great Famine' in Ireland he was appointed an assistant poor law commissioner (1846–7), an experience that led him to write a tract, What is to be done for Ireland? (1847). His health broke down from overwork and he resigned, but returned as second commissioner (1849–51).   An unsuccessful parliamentary candidate for Sligo borough in July 1848, he was elected liberal MP for Carlow county (1852–7), advocating church disestablishment and land reform...appointed .. under-secretary for the colonies (1855–7). He used the position to promote his scientific interests, notably the Palliser Expedition (1857) which discovered several possible rail routes across Canada.  After failing to be elected for Sligo county in April 1857, he stood for Limerick city at a by-election in February 1858, ... he was narrowly defeated... disillusioned him with politics .... to devote himself to science and travel, usually spending part of his summers in Ireland (he had a house at 85 St Stephen's Green, Dublin) and his winters in Europe or North Africa.

As Poor Law Commissioner he had an opportunity to visit many parts of this country to do some hiking. It was in about 1846, when he was visiting the Dingle Peninsula, that he noted features that were attributable to the action of glaciers.  Two years later he had an opportunity to examine the area more closely and reported signs of glaciation around Lough Doon, near Connor Pass, and that he walked along the moraine that extends down to the lower Lough Beirne.  He discussed the glacial features around Lough Cruite under Brandon Peak and the former existence of a small glacier on the NE side of Purple Mountain, where its moraine '...offers to the pedestrian the only path wherein his foot does not sink in the spongy masses of sphagnum...'  All this about ten years before the formation of the Alpine Club  [(See Journal of the Geological Society of Ireland IV for his report (1848-50)] and this shows that he undertook some mountain activities in his own country.

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Others to follow.:

John Tyndall

Anthony Adams Reilly