Early Alpinists (20th C) W.T. Kirkpatrick.

 Other than from his mountaineering writing we know very little about William Trench Kirkpatrick. (See Paddy O'Leary's William Trench Kirkpatrick in Vol IV of the IMEHS  journal).  Family lore holds that his paternal ancestor came from Scotland and was on the ship the broke the boom to relieve the Siege of Derry.  Other ancestors  may have been settled in Larne at this time and William's father was the seventeenth child of Alexander of Drumcondra and he married K(C)atherine Trench who owned Donacomper House in Celbridge, on 29 August 1854.

William, born on first of August 1857 at Monkstown in Dublin, was their second child and had six siblings.   Katherine kept a diary for most of her married life and this gives some insight into the activities of such a family over a period of years, although seldom throwing any light on William's mountaineering career.  In August 1861, when there were four children, endearingly called 'the chicks', they all 'went up Killiney Hill'; an early start to a mountaineering career. 

In September of '67 'my darling Willie went to school'.  He had just turned ten.  Although his father accompanied him to Temple Grove School on the outskirts of London it must have been a wrench for the young lad and when the father returned a week later he reported that Willie 'was very wretched.' 

Katherine, his mother, sometimes combined his collection from school into something of a holiday and in July 1870 this was spent in North Wales where they walked in Llanberris Pass, visited Swallow Falls and swam in Ogwen Lake.

JMW Turner.   Rigi

The 'Grand Tour' was likely to have been 'de rigueur' for such a family.  Katherine and the children undertook such a tour late in 1872 after Willie had returned to school and it lasted for almost two years.  Part of the reason for the tour was that Mary, Willie's older sister had musical talent and she was visiting Belgium and Switzerland for voice training.  The schoolboys joined them for the Christmas and Easter vacations that year and in May they moved from Brussels to Spa and then through Germany towards Lucerne, where Alexander and the boys joined them on the fifth of August.  Two days later the father and boys left at 5am by boat to cross the lake and then walked up and down Mount Rigi (1,798m) – Willie's first Alpine summit.

Rigi (Summit Post)

 A week later the boys 'went to Mt Pilatus to sleep there ... saw a lovely sunrise...had wretched beds and living'.  A few days later he went with father and sister Mary, to Hospenthal where they spent two days, crossed the Furka Pass (2,429m) and visited the Rhone Glacier.  After this they went on to Interlaken from where they did a short, steep, climb to view the Jungfrau, then went on to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald and visited another glacier.  So ended his first Alpine season for the sixteen year old William and  the tenth of September was the boys' last day before heading back to school with the father. 

 He matriculated for Trinity College, Cambridge in Michaelmas term of 1876.  After taking exams in late 1882 he was called to the Bar in 1883. His visits home continued at every opportunity; at Christmas, Easter and summertime when he continued to pursue his outdoor interests of hunting, shooting and fishing.  As well as his work in the legal profession he seems to have been interested in writing and acted as a special correspondent for The Times, for which he went on a tour through Ireland, visiting Belfast, the Giant's Causeway, some of the midland counties and Mitchelstown in Cork. This tour took place between visits to Norway (1885) and Australia (1889), that may have been undertaken for journalistic reasons.  In later years he contributed at least seven articles on his mountaineering exploits to the prestigious Alpine Journal that were compiled into one volume, published as 'Alpine Days and Nights', in 1932.

Details of his mountaineering career have been outlined elsewhere

 (Journal IMEHS Vol. 4, Paddy O'Leary) but only get occasional

 mention in this diary where it records that he went to London on

 July 9th of 1895 but his Alpine Club application records that this 

was his first Alpine season when he climbed six summits in the

 Ortler region. It was during this season that he met up with the Scot,

 Robert Phillip Hope, at Sulden, with whom, along with another

 friend (W. Barnard) they climbed the Ortler summits without the

 help of local guides. 

They didn't climb from centres and in 1902, with Hope,  -

 we slept at no fewer than thirty different places among the

 mountains...our high water mark by traversing the Maije ...

 the first English traverse ...without guides - done by a Scotchman

Pic de la Maije (Wikipedia)

 and an Irishman.

The practice of not using guides was somewhat frowned upon

 by the Alpine Club but this was the beginning of a long partnership

that  resulted in first ascents and new routes. They were together on

 the Isle of Skye the following year, climbing Sgurr nan Gillean,

 Sgurr Dearg and Inaccessible Pinnacle among others.

  In 1915, with members of the United Arts  Club,

 he climbed Barravore Crag in Wicklow.

Thenceforth we climbed together every year till the war, except

Alpine Club (AJ 53, 1941)

 in 1904 (when I was in South Africa), and visited pretty well

 every district in the Alps. We climbed most of the well-known

 mountains, traversing them in a large proportion of cases, and also

 did a good many out-of-the- way peaks that are seldom climbed by

 Englishmen, ...After the war we climbed again, but in 1922 we gave

 up mountaineering, but continued to visit the Alps, walking up hill,

 and doing glacier expeditions. Our last visit together was in 1929 .

..(Hope's obituary. AJ.42. 1930) which would have been when

 William was seventy two.  He died in 1941.

His being very much involved in local matters in Kildare resulted

 in his name appearing on more than six hundred occasions in

 the Kildare Observer, the local newspaper.  During these same years

 he was also performing substantial feats of mountaineering on a

 regular basis in the Alps without arousing any local awareness in

 Ireland, which may be indicative of the general lack of interest in the

 Ireland of the day in such activity.

'Old Bags' - A climbing senator

 John Philip Bagwell, (‘Jack’) (1874–1946), railway executive and politician, was born 11 August 1874, only son of the historian Richard Bagwell, of Marlfield, Clonmel, Co. Tipperary, and Harriet Bagwell (née Newton) of Co. Carlow. He was educated at Harrow and Trinity College, Oxford.

Wikipedia (2010)

Bagwell in 1922 (Wikipedia)

After Oxford, he joined the Midland Railway (England), where he served as an assistant superintendent of line (1905–9). He then returned to Ireland and served as superintendent of passenger services (1910–11) and general manager of the Great Northern Railway (1911–26).

Le Brévant and Aiguille de la Gliere were his first Alpine forays with the guide Joseph Devouassey, when he was about 19 years old (1892).  His interest in climbing may have been inspired by his familiarity with the Comeragh Mountains of which, it was later claimed, he knew every inch.

In 1899, with the same mountain guide, he traveled to Western Canada and climbed Cheops and Eagle Peak in the Selkirks.

In 1922 he was one of W. T. Cosgrave's nominees to the senate, where he courageously served till its abolition in 1936, being reelected in November 1928 and November 1934 and it was that year that he returned to Alpine climbing (Aig du Moine; Aig des Petit Charmoz).

The following year (1923), because of his position as Senator in the Free State Government there was an arson attack on his home at Marlfield and he was kidnapped by anti-treaty forces in Howth and was incarcerated in a house in rural Co Meath.  After making his excape, he later claimed,  that it was his fitness that allowed him to race across the countryside before getting a lift by car back to safety in Dublin. The Press Association said: President Cosgrave paid a visit to Senator Bagwell at the Kildare street Club, Dublin, last evening and said that Mr. Bagwell appeared to be nothing the worse for his adventure and it added that Senator Bagwell crossed from Ireland last night, and will rest in the South of England.

This seems not to have affected his climbing for in that year he made a number of Alpine ascents, including Mt Blanc (Aigs de l'M, Petit Charmoz, Grand Charmoz, La Floriaz). The folowing three seasons saw him revisiting the Alps where he climbed numerous routes with the guides Camille and Benoit Couttet, including Mt Blanc for a second time.

In 1926 he was elected a member of the Alpine Club being proposed by W.T Kirkpatrick who was a friend.  Another friend was FS Smythe who stayed with him at Marlfield and walked with him over his favourite Comeragh Mountains.. His climbing record after that remains to be discovered.

Early 20th Century

 A number of Irish people were very active in Alpine regions in the early years of the 20th Century.

Valentine Ryan and William Trench Kirkpatrick  were being recognised as leading figures among Alpinists of the era.  In Ireland members of the Dublin Arts Club such as Page Dickinson were exploring the Irish hills and mountains for their mountaineering possibilities. Such figures were the ones who were making notable achievements in the sport and remain the ones that are remembered. 

Did such an activity influence the 'ordinary man in the street' ?  Were others indulging in such a leisure-time pursuit, even if at a lower level?

Since the 1880s in a repurposed gate lodge on the Powerscourt estate the McGuirk family ran a tea-shop.  This was located in the heart of the Wicklow Hills, close to Lower Lough Bray but actually in Co Dublin.  A visitor's book was kept by the McGuirks which many of their guests signed and entered comments.  Michael Fewer has analysed this in Tales from a Wicklow Tea Room and provides evidence that the facility was being used by a great many cyclists and hikers from the end of the 19th Century, into the 20th Century up to about 1960.

Hill walkers were..frequent callers at McGuirk's.  Country walking then was a pastime mainly enjoyed by middle- and upper-class people, and ramblers' clubs such as the Sléibhteágaigh and the Brotherhood of the Lug were established in the early twentieth century. (Fewer).

The 'great and the Good' of the Arts and professional classes visited Mc Guirk's on their visits to the Wicklow Hills.  As time went on the addresses listed became more and more from working-class areaas of Dublin.  According to The Irish Times (Sep 1902), ascents of Mangerton and Carrauntoohill in Kerry were common and 'great mountain and open-air tramps were a feature of Dublin life' in the first decade of the century.

The following is a list of some of the people who visited or wrote in the guest book:

J.B Malone; Fr. Willie Doyle, SJ; J Swift Joly; Fr F.M Brown SJ; Standish O'Grady; Oliver Gogarty; J.M Synge; Hugh Lane; John Healy;  William P. Hackett, SJ; Ben Kiely; Samuel Beckett.

Clubs and Organisations

 The Alpine Club, the world's first mountaineering club was founded in London in 1857.

Its first President was Irishman, John Ball and James Bryce, another Irishman,  was President from 1899 to 1901, before being appointed Ambassador to the USA.

As we have seen, many of the pioneering Irish alpinists of the 19th C had been members of the AC.        It seems that from among those living in Ireland that the first organised 'mountaineering' event was

University Club

 held. James Bryce, as Under Secretary of State for Ireland, had led 'his panting subordinates up the steep side of Croagh Patrick'.  If this event is discounted it was the dinner held by the Irish AC members in the University Club on St Stephen's Green, Dublin, that might qualify.  Bryce had been the President of the Alpine Club, was an important figure in Ireland's administrative establishment and was soon to be appointed as British Ambassador to the USA and the event may have been organised by his AC colleagues to celebrate this.  However, there was no Irish club or organisation involved.

ALPINE CLUB DINNER IN DUBLIN.-The first dinner of members of the Alpine Club resident in Ireland was held at the University Club, Dublin, on January 26, 1906. The members of the latter Club having invited their fellow Alpinists' to meet the Right Hon. James Bryce, ex-President of the A. C., the following party assembled to welcome him to Ireland: H. de Fellenberg Montgomery (senior member), in the chair; Sir F. J. Cullinan, C.B.; Hon. G. Fitzgerald, Rev. W. S. Green, H. Warren, G. Scriven, R. M. Barrington, Rev. P. S. Whelan, H. Synnett, W. J. Kirkpatrick, G. B. Tunstall Moore.  (Courtesy: Alpine Club).

More about these to follow.

Early Brotherhood
 members

Brotherhood of the Lug                                                                                                                Somewhat earlier another event took place that could be regarded as the inaugeration of the first 'mountain' club.  This was the foundation of the 'Brotherhood of the Lug' that took place on the summit of Lugnaquilla (The Lug), the highest mountain in Wicklow and Leinster, on March 8th 1903.  Although not claiming to be 'mountaineers', they were prodigious walkers regularly walking distances of 35 km in the Wicklow hills.  The 'cradle' of the Lug, as they called it, was the Vale View Hotel in Avoca, where they stayed overnight before their annual ascent of Lugnaquilla.  The club continues to the present time and its hiking, trekking and climbing is no longer limited to Wicklow, as it was initially, but ventures much further afield.

See IMEHS Journal Vol 4:  Peter Quinn, Ireland's Oldest Walking Club for more detail.

United Arts Club, Dublin.  It came into existence in 1907 as 'a high spirited, non sectarian, non-political social club'; W. B. Yeats, George “AE” Russell, Lady Augusta Gregory -  these writers, along with Ellie Duncan, Count Casimir and Countess Constance Markievicz, founded the United Arts Club.  Despite having no obvious connection with mountaineering a number of its members were enthusiastic Rock Climbers and visited North Wales to climb with the leading British alpinists of the day.  These were such people as Conor O'Brien and Page Dickenson and others.

More about these to follow.

CHA - founded in Britain in 1891 ( by Rev. T.A. Leonard) as the Co-Operative Holiday Association.
This organisation arranged 'good value' walking holidays and established hostels in England, Scotland and Wales. with the aim of encouraging people to visit and enjoy the countryside.  In 1922, James Doyle, who had holidayed with the organisation, wanted to set up a similar association in Dublin.  On writing to the HQ in England, he was given a list of 42 names from Ireland of people who had holidayed with the group, 27 of which were in Dublin.  Following an 'ad' in the Evening Mail and after writing to some, the first meeting was held on 13 Sep 1922.  About 20 attended and the first 'Ramble' was on the 21 October 1922 when they met in Rathfarnham 'a village nestling at the foot of the Dublin Mountains'.  They continued with a programme of rambles and social events, opening a hostel in Bray that had to close in the 70s.  The 2nd WW and the lack of transport affected activities and membership but the club continues today as the Countrywide Hillwalkers Association.  See here for more details.

HF stands for Holiday Fellowship and has its origins in  Lancashire when, in 1891, the Rev T.A.
Leonard starting taking young people walking on the hills. He first formed Co-operative Holidays Association (CHA) and then in 1913 he formed the Holiday Fellowship.

Early HF hikers.

 The emphasis of the organization was on healthy outdoor exercise and temperance (long since abandoned!).   The Dublin branch of Holiday Fellowship was founded in March 1930 by a small group on the south side of Dublin, The Club grew rapidly in members, including Guinness employees and every year they went to an HF center to holiday. There were many notables in the club, like Wilfred Brambell and Dr. Sheehy Skeffington. From the early days there was a programme of rambles and hikes in the mountains of Wicklow and surroundings.                                                                                                                      The club now has  no formal link with the UK company HF Holidays,  though it occasionally holidays in one of its houses.    See here for more information.

Hostel Association:  We are An Óige, the Irish Youth Hostel Association. We were founded in 1931 and ever since it has been our mission to provide safe, affordable, comfortable accommodation and experiences to the young and young at heart. Our aim is to foster an appreciation of nature and the world around us to all, be it backpackers, school groups or families. Many of the hoistels are located in remote areas and give easy access to Ireland mountain regions.

Scouting Ireland:  Scouting Ireland has its history in two legacy Scouting organisations — the Scout Association of Ireland (SAI), formerly known as the Boy Scouts of Ireland, and the Catholic Boy Scouts of Ireland (CBSI). The former traces its roots to 1908, and the latter was founded in 1927 – both trace their legacy to Lord Baden-Powell's Scout Movement.                                                                         By 1908, the influence of Baden-Powell's Scout Movement had spread from Great Britain to Ireland. The first recorded meeting of Scouts in Ireland took place at the home of Richard P. Fortune, a Royal Naval Volunteer Reservist, at 3 Dame Street, Dublin on 15 February 1908 where four boys were enrolled in the Wolf Patrol of the 1st Dublin Troop. The earliest known Scouting event in Ireland took place in the Phoenix Park in 1908 with members of the Dublin City Boy Scouts (later Scouting Ireland S.A.I.) taking part.                                                                                                                                           In Dublin in the 1920s, two Roman Catholic priests, Fathers Tom and Ernest Farrell, followed the progress of Scouting and in  1926 the Catholic Boy Scouts of Ireland (CBSI) (Gasóga Catoilici na hÉireann) was created. CBSI would later become the largest Scout association on the island.

These organisations (other than the Alpine Club) are unlikely to consider themselves 'Mountaineering' clubs.  (It was even sugested that the AC was founded for 'gentlemen who enjoyed walking steeply uphill'! ) The CHA has designated itself a 'Rambling Club'.  However, all of them have facilitated the activity of climbing mountains among their members.

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